How to properly position carabiners when setting up anchors or belays?

1. Choose the appropriate locking type

For high-risk anchors or belays, prioritize using screw-lock or auto-lock carabiners to ensure the gate remains closed under load.
Use high-strength models with a rating of 25 kN or higher to meet the safety requirements of demanding environments such as working at heights, rescue operations, and rock climbing.
2. Ensure correct orientation and posture

Position the carabiner's opening towards the direction of the load, so that the load axis passes through the center line of the carabiner as much as possible, reducing lateral shear force.
In D-shaped or oval carabiners, keep the gate axis parallel to the direction of the load to improve load-bearing efficiency.
3. Use a double carabiner cross-connection

For anchors requiring extra redundancy, a double carabiner cross-connection can be used to form an "X" shape, further distributing the load and improving system reliability.
When cross-connecting, ensure that each carabiner is locked and that the distance between them is sufficient to prevent friction.
4. Check locking status and cleanliness

Before each use, carefully check that the gate is fully closed and that the locking mechanism is functioning smoothly to prevent accidental opening due to dirt or corrosion.
Regularly maintain the carabiners with a specialized cleaning agent to keep the metal surface clean and ensure the long-term reliability of the locking mechanism.